If you’re just getting into watercolor painting, choosing your first brushes can feel confusing fast. I’ve been through that overwhelm – standing in the art store or scrolling through websites, wondering whether I needed a $30 sable brush or if a simple synthetic round would be enough.
In this post, I want to make things simpler by sharing the watercolor brushes for beginners I recommend based on actual use, trial and error, and a lot of paint-splattered sketchbook pages.
There’s no single brush that will work for every person or painting style, but there are certain types that make the learning curve a lot smoother.
I’ll walk you through the basics, what to avoid, and what’s actually worth the money when you’re starting out.
Key Points
- Start with synthetic brushes – they’re affordable and easier to care for
- Prioritize a size 6 or 8 round brush for maximum versatility
- Don’t waste money on giant brush sets with shapes you won’t use
Watercolor Brushes for Beginners: Where to Start
The best place to start is with a small set of versatile brushes that can handle the basics – washes, detail, and everything in between. You don’t need 20 brushes. You just need a few good ones that feel comfortable in your hand and hold water well.
A lot of beginners get overwhelmed with specialty shapes or brush sizes, but honestly, you can do 90% of your early practice with just 2 or 3 brushes. It’s less about having every option available and more about learning how to make the most of a couple of dependable tools.
If you haven’t picked up a brush yet, you might want to read my post on how to get started with watercolor for a bigger-picture overview.
My Favorite Beginner-Friendly Watercolor Brushes
I’ve tested a lot of budget-friendly watercolor brushes over the years, and here are the ones I keep coming back to when helping others get started:
Princeton Velvetouch Round Size 6 or 8
The Princeton Velvetouch Round is the brush I hand to beginners when we’re painting together. It holds a good amount of water, has a sharp point for details, and still makes smooth, controlled washes. The handle also feels comfortable – lightweight without being flimsy.
What makes it especially great for beginners is how well it bounces back into shape after each stroke. You can paint thin lines, fill in medium-sized areas, and even do some dry brush texture without needing to swap brushes. It’s not too soft and not too stiff – just balanced.
Silver Black Velvet Round Size 8 (Optional Upgrade)
If you’re ready to spend a bit more, the Black Velvet brushes offer an incredible mix of synthetic and natural hair that feels noticeably smoother. They’re softer, which takes a little getting used to, but the payoff is how well they glide across the paper.
These brushes also hold a ton of water, which is especially helpful for making long, even strokes without reloading. Just know that they’re more delicate than synthetics – you’ll want to treat them gently when rinsing or reshaping.
Flat Wash Brush (1-inch)
For quick backgrounds or wetting the paper evenly, a flat wash brush is super helpful. Look for one with firm bristles so it doesn’t flop around. Princeton, again, makes great ones at a good price.
Even if you don’t use this brush every time, it’s worth having one in your kit for prepping your page with a clean water wash or laying down smooth sky gradients. It’s one of those tools that makes certain techniques way easier, especially once you start exploring fun watercolor techniques.
What Brush Shapes Should You Actually Get?
Brush shapes can get confusing fast – round, flat, mop, dagger, filbert. But here’s what I recommend when you’re just starting:
Round Brushes
Your workhorse brush. A size 6 or 8 round can handle both broad strokes and fine lines. Go for a pointed round (not a blunt tip) so you can get more control.
Rounds are the most versatile shape. You can paint an entire scene using just a single round brush by learning how to adjust your pressure and angle. They’re great for learning brush control because they’ll show you how the water and pigment behave.
Flat Brushes
Helpful for washes and clean edges. I only use one or two sizes regularly – a 1-inch flat and a 1/2-inch flat are plenty.
These come in handy when painting architectural elements, backgrounds, or when you need a really even wash of color. They also help a lot when you're applying masking tape to get crisp edges and need to paint up against those borders without bleeding under.
Skip These For Now
Don’t bother with fan brushes, angled brushes, or mops at the beginning. They have specific uses that you’ll grow into, but they aren’t helpful when you’re still learning how the paint flows.
Mop brushes, for example, are beautiful for large wet-in-wet areas, but they’re expensive and not practical if you’re working in a smaller watercolor sketchbook. Stick with rounds and flats at first. You’ll know when it’s time to expand.
Should You Buy a Set or Individual Brushes?
There are some affordable sets that work well, but I usually recommend starting with individual brushes. Sets often include filler brushes you’ll never use. If you do buy a set, make sure it includes:
- A round size 6 or 8
- A small detail round (size 2 or 3)
- A flat wash brush
Anything more is a bonus, not a necessity. Focus on building confidence with just a few tools. Limiting your brush selection can actually speed up your progress because you’re learning the strengths and limitations of each one, rather than relying on specialty brushes to do the work.
I go deeper into how to use these brushes in my post on fun watercolor techniques.
Caring for Your Brushes
If you want your brushes to last, rinse them gently after each use and reshape the tip with your fingers before letting them dry flat or upright. Avoid leaving them soaking in water—this breaks down the glue inside the ferrule (the metal part).
If the bristles start to splay or feel crusty, it’s often because leftover pigment dried near the base. Use cool water and gently swish them until the water runs clear. You can also use a small dab of brush soap or mild hand soap once in a while to deep clean them.
It’s also worth investing in a simple brush holder or roll-up pouch for travel or storage. I’ve shared a few of my own watercolor storage tips here. The better you care for them, the more responsive they’ll stay over time.
What Else You’ll Need
Once you’ve got a couple brushes, make sure your paper and paint setup isn’t working against you. Cheap paper can make even great brushes behave poorly. I recommend looking into the types of watercolor paper, especially if your colors keep bleeding or fading. Your brush strokes will look sharper and your paint will dry more evenly on decent paper.
And if your paper keeps buckling or curling, I break down some tricks in how to flatten a watercolor painting. The right paper, paired with the right brushes, can take a frustrating painting session and turn it into something that feels smooth and enjoyable.
Other helpful beginner-friendly posts:
- How to make watercolor skin tone
This post walks you through how to mix realistic and expressive skin tones using watercolor. It’s especially helpful if you’re starting to paint people or portraits and don’t know how to avoid the overly orange or flat look that some beginner palettes create. - Best tape for watercolor paper
This article helps you figure out which types of tape work best for holding watercolor paper in place while you paint. It covers which tapes won’t tear your paper, how to avoid leaks during washes, and when to remove the tape for clean edges. - Watercolor sketchbook recommendations
This is a guide to choosing the right watercolor sketchbook, whether you’re painting at home or on the go. It includes options for hot press, cold press, spiral vs bound, and which ones handle heavy washes without falling apart.