How to Use Watercolor Colored Pencils

I didn’t grow up using fancy art supplies. Most of my sketchbooks were filled with ballpoint pen, graphite, and whatever colored pencils I could afford. When I eventually discovered watercolor colored pencils, it completely shifted how I thought about layering, blending, and texture.

If you’ve been curious about how to use watercolor colored pencils but don’t want a formulaic, paint-by-numbers tutorial, I want to show you how I actually use them in my sketchbook practice.

I draw from real life or photos, starting with big light and shadow shapes, and keep things loose and expressive, not tight or rigid.

This medium bridges the gap between drawing and painting in a way that feels responsive, quick, and surprisingly low-stakes. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to add a new tool to your observational drawing kit, watercolor colored pencils can open up a lot of creative options.

Key Points

  • Sketch first with dry pencil, then activate selectively with water to keep control over edges and layering.
  • Think in light and shadow shapes, not outlines, for a more painterly result.
  • Use textured paper and the right sharpener to get cleaner details and color saturation.

How to Use Watercolor Colored Pencils for Observational Sketching

I usually start by looking at the subject – whether it’s a still life on my desk, a scene from a photo, or something out in nature. I squint my eyes and look for the large light and shadow areas. That’s where I begin my sketch, using light pencil marks to block in these major shapes.

I use the pencils dry at first, just like regular colored pencils. At this point, I’m not thinking about color blending or water yet. I just want to find the form, simplify what I see, and keep it expressive.

I don’t worry about staying in the lines. I let the texture of the paper and my pressure build up some interesting variation. I often keep the pressure light at first and build into darker marks only after I’m confident in the placement.

Once I have the drawing mostly blocked in, I dip my brush in clean water and choose where to activate the pigment. Sometimes I only wet the shadow areas or the background—letting the rest stay textured and dry. It keeps the drawing feeling alive, with a contrast between wet, painterly strokes and dry, sketchy marks.

This is very different from the classic coloring-book method where you outline everything and then fill it in. That never clicked with me. Instead, I use the same process I would with graphite or ink: observe, simplify, and react.

If you’re not sure where to begin, my guide on using colored pencils for beginners breaks down the basics in a non-intimidating way.

Choosing the Right Watercolor Pencils and Paper

Not all watercolor colored pencils feel the same. Some are waxier, others more pigment-heavy. Some lift easily with water, while others barely change once you add moisture.

I’ve had good luck with Faber-Castell and Caran d’Ache, though I also use basic student sets when sketching outdoors or experimenting. Here’s what I pay attention to:

  • How creamy or dry the pencil feels when dry
  • How easily the color lifts and spreads when water is added
  • Whether the colors feel vibrant or dull after activation

It’s worth testing your pencils on a scrap piece of paper to see how they behave dry and wet. Some pencils create a strong line even after water is applied, which can be useful for maintaining details. Others dissolve completely, which can help you create softer washes.

Paper matters just as much. I like cold-press watercolor paper or even a heavy mixed-media paper with some tooth. If you’re layering and blending dry pencil before adding water, that texture helps grip the pigment and gives you more vibrant results.

If the paper is too smooth, it can feel like the pigment just sits on top instead of grabbing. If it’s too rough, your pencils wear down quickly and you lose precision. Something in the middle is usually ideal.

You can find more on the best paper for colored pencils if you want specific recommendations.

Techniques That Work Well (and Ones I Avoid)

There’s a lot of freedom in how you use these pencils, but over time, I’ve found a few go-to techniques that help me stay in control without locking into a rigid style.

Dry Sketch First, Wet Later

This is how I always start. I treat the first stage just like a dry pencil drawing. I keep the pencil marks light at first, then slowly build contrast and layering before bringing in water.

If you go too dark too early, the pigment can smear awkwardly when activated. Lighter layers give you more flexibility to build up slowly, just like a watercolor painting.

Activate with a Tiny Brush

I prefer a small round brush for better control. You don’t need to flood the drawing. Even a damp brush can bring the color to life.

A small brush also helps you avoid accidentally activating areas you want to keep dry. I’ll often use the corner of the brush to touch just the edge of a shadow or blend a transition.

Layer Colors Dry Before Adding Water

Layering a few dry colors on top of each other – like red, purple, and blue in the shadows – can create complex tones once you touch it with water. Don’t overthink it. Just respond to the color and light you see.

If you’re not sure how to blend with dry pencils, I wrote about a few good techniques for coloring with colored pencils that work for both traditional and watercolor types.

Avoid Full-Wash Coverage

I rarely activate the entire drawing. Leaving some areas dry creates contrast and texture. It also keeps you from losing interesting pencil lines under the wash.

This mix of dry and wet gives the drawing a more dynamic, mixed-media look. Sometimes I’ll even go back in with more dry pencil on top of the dried wash to add extra definition.

Be Careful with Edges

Water naturally softens edges. That can work beautifully for backgrounds or soft shadows, but it can also muddy a crisp line if you’re not careful.

I work from back to front, wetting the background first and letting it dry before touching foreground details. That layering helps maintain depth and separation in the drawing.

Tools That Help

A few basic tools can make a big difference with watercolor pencils:

  • A good pencil sharpener is essential, especially since watercolor pencils are often softer than regular colored pencils. A clean point helps with details.
  • I use a simple water brush when sketching on the go, but a fine detail brush and a small cup of clean water are better in the studio. They give more control.
  • A blotting cloth or tissue helps control water and prevent muddy areas. I often use the edge of the cloth to dab off excess water from the brush.

If you're still figuring out your tools, I’ve put together guides to colored pencil sets, erasable colored pencils, and even quirky stuff like colored pencils with erasers that are more useful than you'd think.

Why I Use Them (Even Though I Paint Too)

There are times when I want the look of watercolor without pulling out my whole painting setup. Watercolor pencils let me draw loosely, like I would with regular pencils, but still finish with that expressive wash effect.

It’s especially helpful when I’m outdoors or drawing in public. I can sketch on location, then add water later when I’m back in the studio—or carry a small water brush with me and paint on the fly.

I studied traditional 2D character animation at CalArts, and I still think like an animator when I sketch. Everything is about energy, motion, and form – not outlines.

These pencils are perfect for that kind of thinking. They give me enough precision to suggest form but also let me blur edges and imply motion when needed.

If you’re wondering how they compare to other tools, this breakdown on colored pencils vs watercolor pencils can help you see the difference more clearly. And if you're new to working with pencils in general, my deep dive on colored pencils is a great place to start.

Watercolor colored pencils are surprisingly versatile. You can go from delicate lines to painterly washes without switching tools. The key is to observe what you see, simplify into light and shadow shapes, and stay loose with your application.

Don’t treat it like a coloring book. Treat it like a sketchbook. Keep it expressive. Keep it yours.

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