The best pencil sharpener for colored pencils should create a clean point without repeatedly breaking the core or removing more pencil than necessary. For my own drawing, I use a KUM Long Point Sharpener when I want something small and portable, and a Carl Angel-5 hand-crank sharpener at my desk.
Colored pencils can be more frustrating to sharpen than ordinary graphite pencils, especially when the cores are soft or have already fractured inside the wood. The right sharpener helps, but the type of pencil, point you need, blade condition, and sharpening technique all matter too.
Below I compare the manual and crank sharpeners I use, explain what I would look for in an electric sharpener, and cover how to sharpen colored pencils without constantly snapping the point.
Best Sharpeners for Colored Pencils at a Glance
| Sharpener type | Best for | Main advantage |
|---|---|---|
| KUM Long Point | Portable sharpening and controlled points | Small, simple, and gives me control over the point |
| Carl Angel-5 | Desk use and frequent sharpening | Stable hand-crank design |
| Electric sharpener | High-volume sharpening | Fast and convenient when compatible with colored pencils |
| Basic handheld sharpener | Travel and firmer pencils | Cheap and compact, provided the blade is sharp |
My Favorite Pencil Sharpeners for Colored Pencils
I don’t need every colored pencil to have a needle point. What I care about most is getting a predictable point without breaking the core over and over again.
The two sharpeners I return to are very different: one is a compact handheld sharpener and the other is a crank sharpener that stays near my drawing area.
KUM Long Point Sharpener
This is the sharpener I like for a portable drawing kit. Its compact size makes it easy to carry, and I can control the sharpening process instead of feeding the entire pencil into a machine.
That control is particularly useful with softer colored pencils. I would rather take a little longer sharpening than remove a large amount of expensive core every time I need a fresh point.
I also like being able to decide how far I want to sharpen. For broad layering, I may stop before the point becomes extremely fine. For smaller marks and edges, I can take it farther.
Carl Angel-5 Hand-Crank Sharpener
The Carl Angel-5 is the one I prefer for longer drawing sessions at a desk. A crank sharpener holds the pencil more steadily than I usually can with a tiny handheld sharpener, which makes repeated sharpening convenient.
I don’t carry it around the way I do the KUM, but for studio use I like having a dedicated sharpener that stays in one place.
Can You Use an Electric Pencil Sharpener for Colored Pencils?
Yes, some electric pencil sharpeners can be used with colored pencils, but I would check that the specific sharpener is designed to handle them.
I would especially look for a model with an automatic stop or another way to prevent unnecessary sharpening. The goal isn’t to keep grinding until the pencil has the longest possible point. It is to remove enough wood to expose a useful amount of core and then stop.
If you use an electric sharpener frequently, also keep an eye on the cutter. A dull mechanism can make sharpening less predictable regardless of whether you’re using graphite or colored pencil.
An electric sharpener makes the most sense to me when you regularly sharpen many pencils at once. If I’m carrying a few pencils in a sketchbook kit, a manual sharpener is simpler.
What Is the Best Electric Sharpener for Colored Pencils?
I wouldn’t choose an electric sharpener solely because it promises the sharpest possible point. For colored pencils, I would prioritize how much control it gives you over the sharpening cycle.
Features I would look for include:
- Colored-pencil compatibility: Check the manufacturer’s intended pencil types rather than assuming every electric model will work equally well.
- Automatic stop: Useful for limiting unnecessary material removal.
- A stable pencil opening: The pencil should enter straight rather than wobbling against the cutter.
- Replaceable or durable cutters: A sharp cutting mechanism matters more than extra features.
- Easy cleaning: Colored-penciled shavings and pigment eventually collect inside the sharpener.
I have not named an electric model as my top pick here because the sharpeners I personally rely on are the KUM and Carl. If that changes after enough use with an electric model, I would rather update the recommendation based on experience than add a product simply to make the list longer.
Best Sharpener for Prismacolor Colored Pencils
Prismacolor pencils deserve extra attention because their softer cores can make breakage particularly frustrating.
I use a controlled sharpening approach rather than trying to produce an extremely long, fragile point every time. A sharp KUM is useful when I want something portable, while the Carl gives me a steadier setup at my desk.
If you use these pencils regularly, my guide to how to use Prismacolor pencils covers the rest of the drawing process.
Why Colored Pencil Tips Keep Breaking
If a colored pencil repeatedly snaps while sharpening, the sharpener may not be the only problem.
A few things can contribute:
- A dull sharpener blade. More force is required and the cut becomes less clean.
- An already fractured core. A pencil that was dropped or knocked around may contain breaks farther down inside the casing.
- Too much pressure while sharpening. Forcing the pencil into the cutter doesn’t necessarily make it sharpen faster.
- An unnecessarily long point. A very exposed core is more vulnerable to snapping.
- A worn cutting mechanism. If every pencil suddenly becomes difficult to sharpen, I check the sharpener rather than blaming all of the pencils.
How to Sharpen Colored Pencils Without Breaking Them
I use a fairly simple approach:
- Start with a sharp, clean sharpener.
- Keep the pencil centered instead of pushing it sideways against the blade.
- Use steady pressure rather than forcing it.
- Stop when the point is appropriate for the drawing. It does not always need to be razor sharp.
- If the core immediately breaks again, inspect the pencil rather than repeatedly sharpening away more wood.
A controlled point also gives me more options while drawing. I can use a sharper point for small edges and detail, then allow the point to wear down naturally for broader areas.
Should You Rotate the Pencil or the Sharpener?
With a handheld sharpener, I prefer to keep the sharpener relatively steady and rotate the pencil in a controlled way.
The main thing is avoiding sideways pressure. I want the pencil aligned with the opening so the blade cuts the wood evenly around the core.
A crank sharpener handles more of that alignment for me, which is one reason I like using one for longer sessions.
Do Colored Pencils Ruin Electric Sharpeners?
Colored pencils do not automatically ruin an electric sharpener, but I would use a machine that is intended to handle the pencil type you’re putting into it.
Different colored-pencil cores contain different formulations and can leave pigment and binder inside the cutting mechanism. Regular cleaning and following the manufacturer’s instructions make more sense than assuming every electric sharpener is interchangeable.
If a sharpener begins jamming or cutting poorly, stop and clean or inspect it rather than repeatedly forcing pencils through it.
What Point Should a Colored Pencil Have?
The best point depends on what I am drawing.
| Point | Useful for |
|---|---|
| Sharp | Small details, edges, thin marks, and reaching into paper texture |
| Medium | General layering and most everyday drawing |
| Blunt | Broad color, softer transitions, and later-stage blending |
I don’t constantly resharpen simply because the pencil is no longer needle sharp. Letting the tip change shape while I work gives me different kinds of marks from the same pencil.
A Blunt Point Can Be Useful for Burnishing
When I am working with heavier pressure across a broader area, a slightly worn point can sometimes be more useful than a narrow tip.
That is especially true during burnishing with colored pencils, where I am working existing layers together rather than trying to draw a tiny detail.
I still pay attention to the paper surface because heavier pressure can flatten its tooth and make later layers harder to add.
Sharpening Watercolor Pencils
Watercolor pencils can be sharpened like other colored pencils when they are dry.
I don’t necessarily need an extremely long point if I’m about to activate the marks with water. The useful point depends on whether I am drawing fine dry details or laying down pigment that will become part of a wash.
My guide to using watercolor colored pencils covers the wet and dry stages separately.
Does Paper Change How Sharp Your Pencil Needs to Be?
Yes. Paper texture changes how a point contacts the drawing surface.
On smoother paper, even a moderately sharp pencil can make controlled marks because the surface is relatively flat. A more textured sheet has deeper valleys, and a finer point can help place pigment into smaller parts of that texture.
That doesn’t mean sharper is always better. Paper choice and pencil point should work together.
If you’re still deciding on a surface, see my guide to the best paper for colored pencils.
Choosing a Colored Pencil Sharpener
If I were choosing one today, I would decide first where and how I draw:
- For a sketchbook bag: I prefer a compact handheld sharpener such as the KUM.
- For a drawing desk: I prefer the stability of a hand-crank sharpener such as the Carl Angel-5.
- For sharpening many pencils: an electric sharpener designed for colored pencils can be more convenient.
- For soft pencils: I prioritize controlled cutting and avoiding unnecessary core exposure.
- For firmer or erasable pencils: a simple sharp handheld sharpener may be all I need.
If you’re comparing the pencils themselves rather than the sharpener, my best colored pencils for artists guide is the better place to start.
The Sharpener Matters, but Technique Matters Too
A good sharpener makes colored pencils easier to use, but no sharpener can prevent every broken tip.
I keep the KUM in my portable kit and the Carl Angel-5 near my desk because they fit the way I work. More importantly, I don’t sharpen every pencil to the same point or keep removing material after I already have the tip I need.
For the rest of the process, including pressure, layering, shading, blending, paper, and different pencil types, continue to my main colored pencils guide.