I’ve spent years drawing with colored pencils, and they’ve become one of my favorite tools for drawing. They’re portable, affordable, and capable of surprising depth when used with patience and observation.
I don’t approach them with rigid formulas or step-by-step rules. Instead, I work observationally – looking closely at real life or photos, starting with large shapes of light and shadow, then moving toward smaller details. This medium gives me the flexibility to draw loosely, layer gradually, and capture the mood of what I’m seeing.
For beginners and experienced artists alike, there are a lot of tutorials and questions around what types to buy, which techniques to use, and how to get the best results. That’s why I put this guide together – to share what I’ve learned through trial, error, and many sketchbook pages.
Key Points
- Start simple: don’t chase the most expensive set, but get pencils that let you blend and layer well.
- Paper matters just as much as the tools – texture and weight change everything.
- Don’t be afraid to combine methods like burnishing, layering, and even mixing with watercolor.
Getting Started with Colored Pencils
When people ask me where to begin, I tell them to first get comfortable with the basics. A small, quality set will serve you better than an overwhelming box you never use. Starting with 12 or 24 colors is usually enough to explore layering, blending, and mixing shades without feeling pressured to use everything. Larger sets can be fun, but they often create decision fatigue if you’re still learning how the medium behaves.
There are excellent options in different price ranges, and I’ve shared my recommendations for the best supplies for artists if you want a starting point.
I also suggest focusing on how the core feels on the page – whether it’s soft and waxy or harder and more precise – since that changes how your drawings look. Testing a few brands before investing in a full kit can save frustration.
If you’re brand new, check out my thoughts on beginner-friendly techniques, where I break down how to approach layering without overcomplicating things. Practicing with simple objects like fruit or leaves can help you learn to control pressure and build up values gradually. Once you’re comfortable, you’ll naturally want to expand your palette and refine your style.
Essential Tools Beyond the Pencils
Having the right sharpener is just as important as the pencils themselves. A poor sharpener can waste leads or even break them inside the casing, which can get expensive over time.
Manual sharpeners give you control, but electric ones can save time if you’re working on large projects. Some artists even keep two – one for a fine point and another for broader tips. I’ve tested quite a few and put together a list of the best sharpeners so you don’t waste money on tools that won’t last.
Good paper also matters. The surface texture (tooth) can completely change the outcome of your drawing. A smoother paper allows for fine details but can limit how many layers you can apply, while rougher papers hold pigment better and allow for more depth.
Heavier weight paper also resists warping if you like to blend with solvents or add mixed media. I prefer working on textured, heavier sheets, and I recommend experimenting with some of the most reliable drawing papers to see what fits your style and subject matter.
Techniques to Master
I never aim for a hyper-polished look. Instead, I build layers loosely, letting colors breathe and leaving a sense of life in the drawing. My process usually begins with very light pressure, sketching in large shapes of shadow and light before gradually adding layers of color.
This way, I don’t lock myself into one direction too early, and I have the freedom to adjust values as the drawing develops.
If you want to dive deeper into methods, I’ve written about different techniques for layering and blending. It helps to experiment with crosshatching, scumbling, or glazing colors one over another, instead of just coloring in a flat block.
One approach worth practicing is burnishing, where you press down harder with a lighter pencil to blend layers smoothly and create a more painterly finish. This is especially useful for highlights on fruit, reflective objects, or skin tones.
Another common issue is white spots showing through from the paper, which can distract from an otherwise strong piece. I explain how to fix that in my guide on avoiding white speckles, but the key takeaway is to build up multiple thin layers rather than trying to cover everything in one go. Rotating the angle of your strokes also helps fill the texture of the paper more evenly.
Exploring Different Types of Colored Pencils
Not all brands or formats are the same. Some are designed to erase easily, like erasable options, which are useful for sketching ideas without committing too quickly. These can feel more like graphite in terms of control, and while they don’t offer the deepest saturation, they’re forgiving when you’re exploring ideas.
Others are built for mixed media work, like water-soluble pencils, which allow you to lay down pigment dry and then activate it with water for washes. They’re great if you like the immediacy of watercolor but also want the precision of a pencil.
If you’re curious, I’ve compared traditional vs watercolor pencils and even pencils vs pastel-based versions to show the differences. Pastel-based ones tend to give a softer, chalkier finish that some artists enjoy for blending but they can smudge easily and need fixing spray.
Brands also matter. I use many, but I’ve written specifically about Faber-Castell colored pencils and how they hold up over time in terms of pigment quality and durability. Prismacolor is another well-known option with a softer core that blends beautifully but can break if sharpened improperly.
Polychromos, Caran d’Ache, and even more budget-friendly lines all have strengths depending on your priorities – whether it’s lightfastness, blendability, or affordability.
If you want to explore sets, my guide to different kit sizes will help you decide whether you need 12 pencils or 120. Smaller sets are easier to carry and encourage learning to mix and layer, while larger sets give you the convenience of having every shade ready without mixing.
Thinking about how and where you draw – at a desk, outside, or while traveling – can help you decide which size makes the most sense.
Combining Mediums
One of my favorite things is mixing pencils with other tools because it opens up possibilities you don’t get by using them alone.
They work well alongside watercolor washes for adding texture after a wash has dried. For example, I often block in large gradients with watercolor and then use pencils to define edges or add subtle shading in areas the brush couldn’t capture. This combination speeds up the process and makes the colors pop with more richness.
I also sometimes use them with alcohol markers to get strong base colors and then refine details on top. The markers create a smooth foundation, while the pencils add texture, highlights, or tiny details like hair or grass. This pairing is especially helpful if you’re working on illustrations where you want both speed and fine control.
If you want to see a practical example, I’ve documented drawing a layered sunset scene, where I combined different media for depth. That project shows how you can push beyond one medium, layering effects for more dimension.
You can also experiment further by trying pencils on toned paper after laying down watercolor, or using them sparingly on top of ink drawings to bring warmth and life into the line work.
History and Craft
Part of what I love about any tool is learning where it came from. I’ve looked into the invention of this medium and how the art versions evolved from simple office supplies used mainly for marking and labeling into fine art materials valued by professionals.
Companies like Faber-Castell and Prismacolor invested in better pigments and binders, creating tools that could finally compete with paint for richness and permanence.
If you’re curious about the process, I also explain how they’re made. It’s fascinating to see how pigment, binder, and wood casing all come together with such precision.
Learning that history helps me appreciate not just the tool but the craftsmanship behind it. It reminds me that what seems like a simple pencil is the result of centuries of refinement and innovation, and that awareness gives me a deeper respect for the medium every time I pick one up.
Practical Projects
Sometimes the best way to learn is by drawing something specific. I recommend trying smaller subjects at first – like starter-level drawings or even sketching butterflies.
These projects give you the chance to practice layering and shading without being overwhelming. Simple studies of leaves, seashells, or everyday objects like cups can also teach you how to control values and capture light on different surfaces.
Working in a sketchbook on bite-sized projects removes the pressure of creating a masterpiece and instead builds skill gradually. I often repeat the same subject multiple times – an apple drawn in different lighting, for example – to see how subtle changes affect the outcome.
You might also try themed exercises, like drawing the same flower in different seasons, to practice using varied color palettes. Over time, these small projects add up, giving you confidence and a stronger sense of how to handle the medium in larger, more complex drawings.
This medium is versatile and rewards patience and observation. Whether you’re just starting out or already experimenting, there’s always more to discover.
If you want to go deeper into methods, my guide on step-by-step basics covers the essentials. And if you’re curious about expanding your skills even further, check out my notes on Prismacolor techniques.
I studied traditional 2D animation at CalArts, which shaped the way I look at form, light, and expression. That background still informs the way I draw today – with colored pencils as one of my favorite tools.
