Burnishing with colored pencils is one of those techniques I avoided at first because it sounded overly technical. I imagined it required a heavy hand or some formal, step-by-step approach that didn’t suit my loose, expressive style. But when I finally tried it—especially while drawing from real-life photos where I wanted to push contrast and richness—it clicked.
Burnishing isn't about being perfect. It's about layering, pushing color deeper into the tooth of the paper, and slowly working your way toward a smoother, painterly surface. Done right, it adds richness and depth, helping you achieve a finish that feels more like paint than pencil.
My drawing style is observational. I start by sketching large, simple shapes based on how light and shadow break up the form, then work my way down to smaller shapes and texture. I don’t follow the classic “draw the outline and color it in” method. Burnishing fits naturally into this approach because it's a way to finish or emphasize an area after you've already laid the groundwork.
If you're already exploring how to use colored pencils, or you're curious about how to get a more polished look without going digital, burnishing is worth learning.
Key Points
- Burnishing works best when you've already built up multiple layers of color.
- Use a light-colored pencil or a colorless blender pencil to avoid muddying your hues.
- Choose a paper with enough tooth to take many layers, but not so rough it resists blending.
What is Burnishing with Colored Pencils?
Burnishing with colored pencils means pressing firmly with a pencil (often a lighter color or blender) to fill the tooth of the paper and blend the layers below. The result is a waxy, polished finish that looks almost like paint.
This technique compresses the pigment into the paper, flattening the texture and giving you a richer saturation of color. You can do it with a colorless blender pencil, a white pencil, or even a lighter version of the color you’re working in.
You don’t need to burnish the entire drawing. I usually save it for key areas I want to push forward—like light on a cheekbone, highlights in a leaf, or the smooth surface of water.
Unlike blending with solvents or watercolor techniques, burnishing uses only dry pencils and pressure. It's a slow build, not a shortcut. But that’s part of the appeal. I find it keeps me more connected to the drawing.
If you're curious about your options, here are some of the best colored pencils for artists. Some are better suited to heavy pressure and layering than others.
How I Use Burnishing in My Observational Sketches
I don’t burnish from the start. My process always begins with soft, loose layers of color, focusing on where the light is coming from and how it wraps around a form. I block in basic color and value shapes before refining any edges or thinking about texture.
Once the drawing feels 80% there, I decide where to go deeper. Maybe there’s a highlight on the wing of a bird or a reflection on a bottle—something I want to pop.
That’s when I bring in burnishing. I press more firmly with a cream or white pencil, or sometimes a pale yellow if I’m working in warm tones. Burnishing makes that area glow and stand apart from the rest of the sketch.
When I drew a sunset with colored pencils, I burnished just the center area where the sun met the clouds. It created a natural focal point and gave the drawing depth without needing to polish everything.
If you're still building confidence with layering, my article on techniques for coloring with colored pencils breaks down how I create form and depth before even thinking about burnishing.
Tools That Help with Burnishing
To get a good burnish, your pencils need to be sharp. A dull tip just smears everything and makes it harder to control pressure.
I use a crank sharpener at home and keep a smaller one in my sketch kit. If you’re not happy with your current sharpener, I recommend checking out my picks for the best pencil sharpener for colored pencils.
Other tools that make burnishing easier:
- A colorless blender pencil: many brands sell these separately and they’re ideal for smoothing without changing hue
- White or cream pencils: they’re great for burnishing lighter areas
- A soft brush: use this to sweep off crumbs or pigment dust without adding moisture (never blow on your drawing)
- Paper with a bit of tooth: too smooth and it won’t take layers; too rough and it resists blending. Here are some of the best paper options for colored pencils I’ve tested.
Choosing the Right Pencils for Burnishing
The quality of your colored pencils really affects how well burnishing works. Cheaper or overly soft pencils can mush together or lift from the paper when you add pressure.
Personally, I get the best results with Faber-Castell colored pencils. They hold a sharp point, resist crumbling, and layer cleanly.
If you’re overwhelmed by all the options out there, my guide to colored pencil sets might help you narrow it down.
I also experimented with erasable colored pencils, like the Ticonderoga erasable colored pencils. While they aren’t great for final layers, they can be helpful in the early sketch phase when you want to test composition.
If you want a more versatile toolset, consider how colored pencils and watercolor or colored pencils and markers can be used together too.
Tips for Getting a Painterly Finish
You don’t need to burnish every part of your drawing. I treat it like a spotlight: where do I want the viewer’s eye to go? That’s where I spend the extra effort.
Here are a few tips that really helped me get more painterly results:
Layer first, then press
Burnishing works best when you've already laid down at least 3 to 5 layers of color. The early layers build the structure—burnishing just smooths them out.
If you burnish too soon, the paper tooth flattens and it becomes harder to add any more layers. Give your drawing time to develop before locking it down.
Blend light over dark
I often use a white or light peach pencil to blend over darker areas. It doesn’t erase the value, but it melts the colors together and gives a glow effect that feels more like oil paint.
This is especially helpful in skin tones, sunsets, and anywhere you want soft transitions.
Burnish selectively
Less is more. I tend to burnish highlights, curved surfaces that catch the light, or anything I want to feel more finished. I leave shadows and backgrounds more textured.
That contrast between burnished and unburnished areas gives a drawing more life. It also keeps the sketch from looking too stiff or overworked.
You can learn more about getting a solid foundation before burnishing in my guide on how to color with colored pencils without white spots.
Mistakes I Made Early On
I definitely overdid it at first. I was so excited by the polished look that I tried to burnish everything. But that flattens the whole drawing and makes it harder to control color transitions.
Another mistake: using paper that couldn’t handle it. I tried a super smooth sketchbook once and the pencil just slid around. On the flip side, I once tested burnishing on rough watercolor paper and it shredded the pigment. If you're ever curious, I did explore how to use watercolor colored pencils and whether you can use colored pencils on canvas. Each surface has its quirks.
Also, not all colored pencils behave the same. Some are great for blending, others are too waxy or too dry. If you're curious about the differences, here's a breakdown of colored pencils vs watercolor pencils and colored pencils vs pastel pencils.
Where I Learned to Think About Color and Pressure
I studied traditional 2D character animation at CalArts, where we focused on line, movement, and observation. We didn’t render every drawing to perfection—we were trained to feel the form, capture energy, and communicate emotion through shape and rhythm.
That way of drawing changed how I approach everything, even colored pencils. Burnishing isn’t about polishing something until it looks rigid. It’s about choosing where to polish, where to leave things rough, and how to guide the eye.
If you're new to this medium or want a refresher, my beginner-friendly guide on using colored pencils for beginners walks through the basics.
And if you're the kind of person who likes to know how things are made, you might enjoy reading about how colored pencils are made or when they were invented. Knowing the materials always makes me appreciate the craft more.
If you're curious about the full range of materials and techniques I use, I have a complete hub on colored pencils that links out to everything.