I've always drawn by observing what's in front of me—starting with the larger shapes I see in light, shadow, or form, then working my way into the details. I don’t follow a formula or rely on strict outlines. I like to keep my sketches loose and expressive, even if I’m using traditional tools.
That’s probably why combining colored pencils and watercolor felt natural to me over time, rather than something I forced myself to learn. These mediums offer different strengths, and when you pair them thoughtfully, they can bring out the best in each other.
If you've ever wondered whether colored pencils and watercolor actually work well together, I can tell you from personal experience that they absolutely can—with a few caveats. You don’t need fancy training or a perfect process, just a willingness to experiment and observe how each material behaves on the page.
I studied traditional 2D character animation at CalArts, where drawing with intention and energy mattered more than polish. That mindset stayed with me. I want to share some real-world insights on how to make these two mediums complement each other, not compete.
Key Points
- Watercolor works best underneath colored pencil. Always let it dry completely before layering.
- Use toothy paper that can handle both wet and dry media without buckling or wearing down.
- Stick to observational drawing—let watercolor suggest the big shapes, and use pencil to carve into the small ones.
Colored Pencils and Watercolor: How They Interact
Let’s start with the basics. Watercolor is a water-based paint, which soaks into the paper. Colored pencils are wax- or oil-based, and they sit on the surface. That physical difference is where most of the creative tension (and potential) comes from.
In practice, watercolor lays down soft washes and broad areas of tone very quickly. It’s perfect for blocking in those larger shapes I mentioned earlier—the shapes formed by light, atmosphere, or the contours of a scene.
Once that watercolor layer is dry, colored pencils can add edge, texture, or focus. You can tighten up forms, define areas of contrast, or add marks that help describe texture (like bark, hair, or fabric). The pencils give you control after the loose spontaneity of watercolor.
I never use pencils on top of wet watercolor. They drag, dig into the fibers, and leave a mess. Waiting until the page is fully dry is non-negotiable. And I avoid using watercolor over heavy pencil areas—the water often won’t stick, or it beads up oddly.
If you want to use watercolor again later in your process, keep your pencil layer light and skip the waxy buildup until the very end.
Best Practices for Layering
Getting a clean result with watercolor and pencil together means thinking about paper, drying time, and your order of operations. A little planning goes a long way.
Use Paper That Supports Both Mediums
Choose a paper that has enough tooth for colored pencil but is also thick enough to handle water without warping. I often use hot press watercolor paper if I want smoother pencil detail, or cold press if I’m going for more texture.
Regular sketchbook paper usually isn't up to the task. It might buckle when wet or wear out when you layer colored pencil. Look for at least 140lb (300gsm) watercolor paper for reliable results.
I go into more detail in my article on the best paper for colored pencils, especially if you're shopping for mixed media use.
Work From Loose to Precise
I usually begin with a light graphite sketch to block in shapes. Then I move into watercolor—light washes for shadows, atmosphere, and overall form. I don't worry about detail yet. It's all about setting the scene.
Once the watercolor layer is dry, I switch to colored pencils to define edges, carve in shadow shapes, and pull out textures that feel too soft or vague. I often squint at my reference to identify where I want crispness, then use pencil just in those areas.
This approach mirrors how I draw in general: start loose, end with intention. Let the water do some of the work, then refine.
Don’t Over-Burnish Too Early
If you go too hard with colored pencils early on, especially with techniques like burnishing, you’ll flatten the tooth of the paper. That makes it hard to add more watercolor or pencil.
Burnishing—pressing hard to create a shiny, blended look—is great at the very end when you're locking in your final details. But if you press too soon, you'll lose the ability to build more layers. So keep your pencil pressure light at first.
Which Colored Pencils Work Best with Watercolor?
You can use standard wax- or oil-based pencils, or even watercolor pencils (more on that in a second). Personally, I often reach for a few colors from my Faber-Castell colored pencils set. They're soft enough to blend well but still hold a point for detail.
The layering is smooth, and they play nicely with textured paper. They also don’t feel overly waxy, so I can make multiple light passes without building too much resistance.
I also sometimes mix in erasable colored pencils for sketching under watercolor—especially if I’m working in a sketchbook and want to keep things light and flexible.
If you're just getting started and want to explore the best options out there, here are a few helpful links:
- Using colored pencils for beginners
- Best colored pencils for artists
- Colored pencil sets worth trying
Should You Use Watercolor Pencils Instead?
Watercolor pencils can bridge the gap between colored pencils and watercolor. You can draw with them dry, then activate parts of the drawing with a wet brush. It’s a great way to experiment with controlled washes and detail.
This combo can be especially useful when you're working outdoors or don't want to carry both paints and pencils. They let you stay spontaneous.
That said, they behave differently than traditional pencils. When dry, they're often a bit harder or scratchier. And once wet, they don't always react the same way as pan watercolor.
If you want to learn how to use them intentionally (rather than as a gimmick), check out this article on how to use watercolor colored pencils.
Also, this article compares colored pencils vs watercolor pencils in more depth.
Mistakes to Avoid When Combining the Two
I’ve made plenty of mistakes using colored pencils and watercolor together. Most of them came down to rushing or using materials that didn’t support both mediums well.
Here are the ones I try to avoid now:
- Using glossy paper or smooth bristol. It resists both watercolor and colored pencil, which leads to frustration.
- Going in too dark too early. If you start with deep pencil tones before watercolor, it can muddy the washes.
- Not letting watercolor dry fully. I know it’s tempting to rush, but if you don’t wait, pencil just doesn’t sit right.
- Using a dull pencil. Especially after a watercolor layer, you'll want a sharp pencil to cut through the texture and make crisp marks. I use the best pencil sharpener for colored pencils to keep a consistent point.
You can learn more general colored pencil do's and don'ts in my full guide on how to use colored pencils, and even how to avoid white spots in your coloring.
Why This Combo Works Well for Observational Drawing
When I’m drawing from life—whether it’s a sketch of a plant, a sunset, or an animal—watercolor helps me capture the big picture fast. It blocks in the form, atmosphere, and temperature of the scene. Then colored pencil lets me carve into it, responding to what I see with detail, contrast, and texture.
That back-and-forth dialogue between looseness and control is a perfect fit for observational drawing. You're not filling in a coloring book. You're responding to what you see, moment by moment.
I sometimes sketch sunsets or skies by starting with a light wash, then adding pencil strokes to suggest tree branches, distant hills, or silhouetted shapes. It helps me stay responsive, not rigid. You can see an example of this process in my post on drawing a sunset with colored pencils.
And if you're brand new to this medium, I'd recommend checking out my foundational guide to colored pencils before you start layering them with watercolor.